8 8 8 8 8 8 8

Company of  GoSeeMy.com
    Bobanero Brew
**********
     
H
Home Brew  "is what you can do to create your own flavors,
fun and excitement in your life

The Guardians of our indeaver are 
Dax and his Brother  Watson





We guard the Hops and the Habaneros
Adding our own little frav
ors
   See our Site for
Haubenero Hops





For Brewing Beer


 
 Our Cheff  Habanero Dianne   
m
Bobanaro Salsa by Dianne


It's been a Hot couple of record years
  and your still my Sweet Habanero Girl
Nice " But I'm not sharing my beer



It only takes One Habanero and a
hand full of Hops
 " PriceLess



 From our Hops and our Vines


   Ale                        Concord


 
We Brew

We Stir

We Fill

We Labal

We Enjoy
Babanero Brew in a Pot
 Try a little bite " You Think It's Hot?
 
 


This is what tthis salsa is made for  

 Kitchen in the Brewers Cave *This is where   Dianne & I
 Do  Quality Time Togeather 

 

 

 

 

All Grain Homebrewing How To  Cherry Wine From  Prurees         5 Gal Recipe Degassing Wine With A Drill Mixer What Is Sodium Bisulfite  2nd Artical 2 Stage Fermenting   Yeast      

 

Bells Beer
Hops Simcore Hops Centinnial Hops 1 lb bags



Great Site for

Account    Brew TV

SUBSEQUENT YEARS Hops will die back to the permanent root stock (crown) each fall. The crown is hearty, and relatively unaffected by even the deepest winter freeze. Hop vines break ground at about the same time the earliest spring flowers appear. Hops grow back much stronger after they have developed a good root system. Prune the earliest shoots back to the ground to encourage heartier second growth.

HARVEST AND DRYING Hops should be harvested before the first frost. The actual date will vary depending on your location, but mid-August to mid-September is most common. Hops are ready to harvest when the aroma is strongest. Test the aroma by smelling a crushed hop cone. As you squeeze a mature hop between your fingers, you should notice a yellow powder from the lupulin glands. Ripe cones will feel dry and papery. With some varieties the color will be lighter. Slight browning of the lower bracts of the cone is normal, and a good sign of maturity.

Lower the hop vine to the ground to begin the harvest. Pick only the cones, not the leaf material. Dry hops before usage or storage. In dry weather, airdrying is preferable. Spread them shallowly onto a window screen, and keep them out of direct sunlight. Every day you should “fluff” the hops to bring moist hops to the outside of the pile. The hops are dry when the inner stem of the hops is brittle. It should break rather than bend. If you must dry hops with a food dehydrator or in the oven, keep the temperatures under 140 degrees.

Store hops away from oxygen. Most home growers don’t have access to oxygen-barrier bags and vacuum sealers, so the best compromise is to pack as many hops as possible into a ziplock-style freezer bag. Squeeze them tight to remove as much air as possible and seal the bag. Store hops frozen until used. USAGE Homegrown hops are typically used for aroma, flavor or dry hopping. Since precise alpha acids are not known, it is a challenge to use them for bittering. A few test batches may be necessary to get the feel for the potency of the hop. Use homegrown hops in the same quantity (by weight) as commercial hops. Leaf hop utilization is about 15% less than pellets.

 
       
       
                      How to make your first  Home Brew Beer    Simplified    See Video   Wood Wine Box   Sweet
 

         1 -  Bring  4 - 1/2 gals of water to 150 to 170 Degrees

                                        Turn off Flame

    2 - Put grain into Muslim bag   Seep for 30 min
        Then rinse them out grain bag  hot water get all the flavor /  (Don’t squeeze)

     

     3 – Add Malt Syrup  rinse all  of  it out of bag / bottle  Yum Yum

                 Bring to rolling Boil   begin 60 min timer

       4   Add Hops in Muslim Bag   
                 

        5 -   Then last 15 min of boil add  Wart Tablet 
                            
  and Second hops Small bag

 

     6 -  Last 10 mins of boil insert copper coil  for cooling  let set in water to disinfect    
                           
Cool down boiling  water   about 70 to 75 Degrees

 

   7  Remove Hop Bags  and Poor wart into sterilized Jug

               Top off  with cold water to get 5 Gal of wart

8 -   wiggle your Bottle of wart around to get air for the yeast

Add Yeast then put Airlock

Wait 2 weeks to bottle  “Hurry

 

Sprouting the Hop seeds 

 

 

They require a cold stratification period of dormancy,
 Here are some basic steps that I followed:

 

1  - Soak the seeds in a slight bleach solution to sterilize the surface.

2 -  Place the seeds ziplock with a barely wet (wrung out) paper towel.

3 - Store at 40F in the fridge for a month.

4 - After a month, move the seeds to a +70F area.

5 - As they individually sprout, move the seeds to soil

At this point only a few of the seeds have sprouted.

If, after a few weeks, there is no sign of further activity, I plan to repeat steps 2-4.

 

GoSeeMyArtGallery.com


Dianne and I  have been creating our Driftwood Designs for
over 35 years, they are an original idea, growing
from our love of driftwood, and the ocean,

   How to remove a Stopper from the inside of  CarBoy   Video
 
 

 

As Easy As I Can Make It” Red Wine Recipe

By Home Brew It

 

Makes 1 gallon.

 

This is as simple as I can make it, other than my Freaked Out Hippie Recipe.
     I cannot stress enough to try to make sure all your utensils are clean or sterile as possible.

 

Ingredients

◾5 pounds Concorde grapes

◾2 quarts water

◾2 pounds sugar

◾1 package wine yeast

 

Instructions

1.Lightly crush grapes in a primary fermenting container.

2.Dissolve sugar in water and add to crushed grapes (called must).

3.Pour one pack of yeast into 2-3 ounces of water heated to 104 – 109 degrees F. Do not stir and let sit for 15

  minutes only. Then stir to suspend yeast and add to must.

4.Note that you can use bread yeast, but your wine might taste like cider. Or you can also do it the old fashioned way: take your chances and not add any yeast and let it ferment naturally.

5.Stir well and cover fermentor loosely.

6.Let ferment for 7 days, stirring twice daily.

7.After seven days, remove the pulp and siphon off the liquid through a course strainer into a secondary fermentor (a 5 gallon glass jug or one gallon glass containers) Leave some breathing room in these bottles. Any extra liquid should be kept for topping off when racking.

8.Top with a rubber bung and airlock. Or you can use the 70s way and put a balloon on top, secured with a rubber band or good string. Put one pinhole in the balloon if using this method.

9.Let ferment 3-4 weeks then rack (siphon off, liquid leaving sediment behind) into clean secondary fermentor. Repeat airlock or balloon method for another 4 - 6 weeks or until fermentation has stopped.

10.Siphon off and bottle.

11.Age for one year.

How long should beer be left
in the carboy before bottling/kegging?
While there may be much debate about whether secondary fermentation is necessary or not,
Midwest suggests trying it once and judging for yourself. We think you’ll see, smell, and taste a
noticeable difference in the quality of your beer. As soon as you are seeing one bubble a minute
or less coming out of the airlock of your primary fermenter (usually after 1-2 weeks for most ales,
and about 2 months for most lagers), it’s time to transfer (or “rack”) your brew to a glass carboy
or Better Bottle for secondary fermentation.
Several styles of beer will benefit from a longer secondary fermentation. This time gives the
beer a chance to settle naturally and for the flavors to blend properly.
Light Ales: 1 week primary/1-2 weeks secondary
For a style like Liberty Cream Ale, Honey Bee Ale, Aussie Light Ale, etc., we would recommend
one week in primary, and 1-2 weeks in secondary. The lighter flavor of these beers allows the beer
to be drinkable sooner because you are not waiting for the alcohol bitterness to subside, or for the beer to mellow
out. You are just waiting for the beer to clear to your liking. So, once it is clear enough, feel free to bottle or keg.  

 Reasons for racking

There are three main reasons for racking. Firstly, if you wish to ferment your beer longer than say 10 days, moving the beer off the yeast cake will reduce the risk of autolysis, a process whereby yeast cells, having consumed all other available food, begin to metabolise each other, creating a foul taste. Secondly, the time spent in the secondary gives the beer time to clear, as solids in the beer settle out. Thirdly, the time the beer spends in the secondary fermenter is a period during which the beer matures and the flavours smooth out. A period of time maturing in a fermenter is more beneficial than maturation in a bottle, as larger volumes make maturation easier and more effective.

Additionally, racking is the most common ways to do bulk priming. Bulk priming is where you dissolve a measured amount of sugar into your fermented beer just prior to bottling in order to achieve consistent and accurate carbonation in every bottle regardless of bottle size. It has the additional bonus that you don't have to stuff about priming every bottle individually. By racking onto your sugar you avoid stirring up the trub, as you would if you tried to stir the sugar into the primary (or secondary) fermenter.

 

  My Pallet Says Yahoo

   Beer  Equipment Company's


 Great Guys  Talk to Tony


<i>BrewingTechniques</i>





logo4.png


Free Shipping Over $60.00

 

Grain Brewing with Pictures

Moving to All Grain 

 After you have some experience with Extract Brewing, you will inevitably find yourself wanting to make the move to All Grain. While the all grain brewing process does take 1-2 hours longer (for the Mashing and Sparging processes, it offers a much wider range of ingredients and better control over the brewing process. This article details some of the items you need to consider when moving from extract brewing to all grain brewing.

 

Equipment

All grain brewing does involve an added investment in equipment. Here I assume you already have a 5 gallon fermenter, racking and bottling equipment but probably lack some of the items below:

Error creating thumbnail: Unable to save thumbnail to destination

 Mash TunLarge Boil Pot - For all grain brewing you will need to boil the full size of your brew (usually 5 gallons) plus a gallon or so additional wort that will boil off during your 60-90 minute boil. In addition you need some space at the top to avoid boil-over. We recommend at least an 8 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch size, or 14 gallon pot for a 10 gallon batch. In addition you will need a second pot equal to your batch size that you can use to heat water for sparging.

Outdoor Propane Burner - While it is possible to heat your huge pot over several burners on a stove, it can be quite dangerous moving large amounts of wort around and it also takes a very long time. A high BTU propane burner is relatively cheap and will boil your wort quickly in the driveway or on the back patio with less mess. Don't use it in an enclosed area however!

Gott Style Cooler - A water cooler makes the best Mash Tun for most homebrewers. A 5 gallon cooler can easily be converted to serve as a mash tun and lauter tun - and the insulation will make it very easy to do an infusion Mash. See the Mash Tun link for details on how to add a false bottom to your cooler.

An Immersion Chiller - While not strictly needed, it does take a very long time to cool 5 gallons of boiling wort without a chiller. Cooling your beer quickly reduces the risk of infection and also helps many undesirable proteins and tannins to fall out of the beer before ferementation.

 

The All Grain Process

 

All grain brewing starts with the Mashing process. All of your grains are crushed first, and the crushed grains are placed in your Mash Tun. Hot water is then added to the mash tun to raise the temperature of the mixture to between 148F and 158F. Typically water is mixed with grains at a rate of approximately 1.25-1.5 quarts per pound of grain. The temperature and amount of water for the infusion can be calculated using a tool such as BeerSmith. You then cover your mash tun and leave the mash for 45-60 minutes. During this time, complex sugars are broken down into simple sugars that yeast can easily consume. One typically stirs the mash every 10-15 minutes to prevent hot spots from developing in the cooler.

 

In the next step, called Sparging, hot water is added to the top of your mash tun and drained through the false bottom into your boiler. It takes time to extract the sugars from the grains, so don't rush this process. I usually allot at least 20-30 minutes to fully sparge the mash tun and extract about 6 gallons of wort for a 5 gallon batch.

 

Once you have the hot wort extracted, the rest of the process of Boiling, Cooling and Fermenting the wort is the same as it would be for an extract brew. There are only two differences. First, you will use less hops during the boil because your wort is not as concentrated - meaning that more bitterness is extracted from the same amount of hops. The best way to account for this is to use some brewing software such as BeerSmith to calculate the bitterness of your brew and adjust your hops accordingly. The second obvious change is that you are boiling a much larger amount of wort, and need to be cautious when handling large heavy pots and also need a good cooling system to cool the wort as quickly as possible. However, the rest of the brewing process is just as it was with extract brewing.

 

The process can be a little messy the first time, but remember it gets much easier after a few

All Grain Brewing   Video

 

Is it worth Brewing your own Beer 

My Fridge say's so

       
 

  

 

Bottling Homebrew with Flavored Liqueur

Adding liqueur at bottling time is one way of adding flavors to your homebrew, especially when making a fruit beer. Liqueurs are lower-alcohol spirits flavored with fruit, herbs, spices, or nuts, and then sweetened.

 These concoctions are normally used for flavoring cocktails or coffee, but they Measure out a small sample of beer and add the liqueur in .1 mL increments. Keep in mind that most of the sweetness in the liqueur will ferment out. Scale up when you find the right ratio. For example, if .1 mL liqueur per 1 ounce beer is the magic number, multiply by 128 (ounces in a gallon) then by 5 (gallons in a batch) to arrive at 64 mL of liqueur. Plan for an increase in alcohol content –

Two cups of a typical liqueur will add about 1% ABV to your five-gallon batch of homebrew. to arrive at how much liqueur to use for bottling. Just keep in mind that depending on the flavor of the liqueur, you may or may not want to use that much. Let’s work through an example: Say you’re brewing Captain Cogsworth Coffee Stout, but instead of priming with coffee and sugar, you use eight ounces (by weight) of a 40 proof coffee liqueur. Measuring the specific gravity of the liqueur, you get 20˚ Plato. Multiply the proof (40) by .106 = 4.24˚P 20 + 4.24 = 24.24˚P 8 (weight of liqueur in ounces) * .2424 (percent sugar in liqueur) = 1.94 oz. sugar In this example, the 8 ounces (by weight) of coffee liqueur contributes the equivalent of 1.94 oz. of priming sugar.

 

 

 Adjust your priming sugar addition accordingly. Alternatively, if you want to prime with just liqueur, take the total amount of priming sugar and divide by the total sugar percentage from above: 5 oz. priming sugar / .2424 = 20.63 oz. liqueur (by weight) Add 20.63 ounces (by weight, not volume) of the liqueur at bottling time. -

 

 

 DIY Cherry Liqueur

IIngredients

  • 6 cups Bing cherries, pitted
  • 1 cup brandy
  • 1/2 cup vodka
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 cinnamon stick, broken (optional)

Directions

  1. 1.

    Put the pitted cherries at the bottom of a sealable glass jar and muddle them with a wooden spoon or muddler to release some juice. Drain the juice into a separate container and set aside. Then add the brandy, vodka, and cinnamon stick to the muddled cherries. Seal and shake the jar. Let steep for one week at room temperature away from direct sun, shaking every few days.

    2 - Combine the reserved cherry juice, sugar, and water in a pan and bring to a boil, stirring frequently until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and let cool. Once the syrup is cooled, add it to the steeping jar, seal, and shake. Then let it steep for an additional 2 to 5 days. Strain through fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth into glass jar or bottle. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

 Day 1  " Beer on  Right,   Will it get Lighter?   it's Dark  now Just Brewed

  Day 2  " Wait "  is that getting Lighter

Good

3rd Day  WOW 

Day 4     Smells  good   

          2 weeks Later           Now look   

 

                                                 "WOW Time to bottol  

http://www.northernbrewer.com/the-plinian-progeny-all-grain-kit

 

 Out of Stock  But I wll get 

On the Brewing of Double IPAs

Things have been quiet around here for the last few months. A combination of insane travel schedules and work responsibilities have left me very little time to brew. In fact, I have just two things happening at the moment: w00tstout in secondary (on bourbon-soaked oak chips), and Pompey the Great on draft.

The Pompey The Great (my name for Northern Brewer’s Plinian Legacy) I made is on tap in the game room, now, and it’s delicious. I’m finding that I love double IPAs more than their traditional counterparts because of the malt sweetness that balances the bitterness. Don’t get me wrong — I still love a good Ruination from time to time — but DIPAs like Pliny and Firestone’s Double Jack (and the limited-release Double DBA, if you can find it) are rapidly becoming my go-to choices.

So let’s talk a little bit about the things we need to consider when we’re making a double IPA, as opposed to a traditional IPA. These notes primarily apply to all-grain, but there’s advice for extracts in here, too:

  • I was very surprised when I did my extract Plinian Legacy, because after the boil was finished, I had a thick, sticky, extremely viscous mass in my kettle. It really looked like I’d done something wrong and wrecked the brew, until I collected everything out of the kettle (I had to scrape it out with a spatula, it was so thick) and topped it off. It was very useful to have Brewsmith on hand to make sure I used the right amount of water to top up.
  • Following on from that first point: don’t panic if your extract kit seems to be super-concentrated at the end of the boil; once you top up, it’ll be fine.
  • In fact, when you top up, put about a gallon and a half into the fermenter before you add the wort, and then top it off with water. This way you’ll minimize striation and get a more accurate hydrometer reading.
  • Our mash time will probably be closer to 90 minutes than 60, because we need to extract more sugars to hit our target gravity. This also means that our sparge will be longer, and we’ll need to be very patient during the entire lautering process.
  • Plan on losing a gallon per hour to boiloff, and another gallon to dead space in your kettle, and collect eight gallons of wort if you can (be careful that you don’t make it too thin). Most double IPAs need 90 minute boils, and it’s always better to have more wort left in the kettle than make a sadface when it’s time to fill the fermenter.
  • Keep an eye on your hops. When we do double IPAs, we end up using way more hops than in a traditional IPA, and if you don’t weigh out and bag your additions ahead of time, it’s surprisingly easy to let things get mixed up.
  • Be prepared to stir your boil. The extra sugars in these brews make it dangerously easy to boilover.
  • Aerate the hell out of your wort before you pitch. I use a stainless steel stone with an aquarium pump, and usually aerate for thirty minutes.
  • Speaking of pitching, I always double pitch when I do a beer this big, because my OG is usually around 1.086 or so, and I want my yeasties to go nuts as quickly as possible.
  • Don’t rush your primary. Sometimes it can take up to two weeks for the yeast to do all of its work, and even then you may want to give it a day or two to clean up after itself. These beers can get really boozy.
  • Nearly all double IPAs use dry hop additions in secondary. While you can use a bucket or standard glass carboy for secondary, I freaking love my Big Mouth Bubblers, because it makes dropping in the hops bags easy, and clean up is stupidly simple. After trying to pull a swollen hops bag out of the neck of an older glass carboy, and ending up wearing a hops explosion, I will never go back.
  • I like to weigh down my hops bags with some sanitized marbles. DO NOT USE LEAD FISHING WEIGHTS FOR THE LOVE OF GOD WHY DO I EVEN HAVE TO SAY THIS.
  • I like to get my beer out of secondary on a tight 10 day schedule, so that I get the maximum hop aroma possible when I finally drink the beer.
  • Remember, double IPAs are delicious, and if you’ve balanced them out properly, you may not even realize that you’re drinking a beer that can be upwards of 9% ABV. Keep an eye on that when you’re enjoying your homebrew, and beware of Bad Idea Bears.



     

   Brand New                                                                             Used 


Buba Gump   Full of Pure Cherry Juice  and 6 Habaneros
  Added to the  Dark Cherry Stout  Beer above

 

   

2 new beers  
 

 

Wine "What shall we sip tonight ?


                                                                       

Smoked Habaneros                                                          

 

 

 

 Our Seasoned Wine Tester

 

              
                       Try this one  Elain                                   Hold on Let me finish this Glass

 

 

Love it  "Sweet Cherry Wine

  Like me"

 

 

 

Will it Clear Yes Sir   Concord  and Cherry Wine 2 weeks  to bottom 

 

Concord  From Our Grapes Idaho Home Grown

 

 

 

 

 

Cherry wine  fermenting

 

 

11 Mistakes Every New Homebrewer Makes

1. Using the sanitizer that comes with a beer kit. This powdered sanitizer is slow and not especially effective. Instead get a no-rinse sanitizer like Star-San or Iodophor, which are faster and easier to use. Sanitize everything that touches your beer post-boil, and make sure it is carefully cleaned after each use (sanitizers are most effective on scrupulously-clean scratch-free surfaces). Keeping wild microbes out of your beer is the single most important step to brewing solid beer.

3. Brewing with unfiltered, chlorine-containing tap water. If you are on a municipal water supply odds are that it contains either chlorine or chloramines. To remove them you can either charcoal filter or treat your water with metabisulfite, or alternatively use bottled water. One of the most common off-flavors I taste at homebrew club meetings is medicinal chlorophenol, which is formed by the combination of chlorine in the water or sanitizer and phenols from malt and yeast.

 4. Squeezing the grain bag after steeping. This releases tannins, which give the body a rough texture. Steep your grains in a small amount of water (no more than three quarts per pound) and then rinse them by either pouring hot water over the grain bag or dipping the grain bag into a second pot of hot water. Edit: I've had a couple people dispute squeezing being an issue in the comments. I've tasted some tannin-y beer from new homebrewers, but maybe it was just from a high water to grain steeping ratio. I'll have to squeeze the grain bag into a glass and have a taste the next time I brew an extract beer.

YEAST

A packet of T-58 dried Belgian ale yeast.5. Using liquid yeast. "Pitchable" liquid yeast cultures barely have enough cells to ferment a standard gravity beer on the day they are packaged, and their cells die quickly from there. A high quality 11.5 g package of dried yeast starts with as much as twice the cells as a fresh package of yeast from either Wyeast or White Labs, and retains high cell viability for much longer. While Fermentis, for example, claims a minimum of 6 billion cells per gram at packaging, the actual number tends to be much higher. Liquid yeast can produce great beers, but require a starter unless you are getting extremely fresh yeast and brewing a low-alcohol beer.

 

 6. Not aerating the wort adequately. It takes several minutes of shaking for the chilled wort to absorb the ideal amount of oxygen to allow the yeast to complete a healthy growth phase. The healthier your yeast cells are the cleaner and quicker they will complete the fermentation.

 7. Pitching when the side of the pot or fermentor feels “cool enough.” Use a sanitized thermometer to check the actual temperature of the wort before you add the yeast. Pitching when the wort is above 100 F is rare, but will kill the yeast. Ideally the temperature should be at or below your target fermentation temperature to allow the temperature to rise as the yeast grows and ferments. You can pre-chill the sanitized water you use to top-off after the boil to help bring the temperature down.

 

 8. Fermenting at too high of a temperature. Take note of the ambient temperature of the room the beer is fermenting in, but realize that at the peak of fermentation the yeast can raise the temperature of the beer by as much as 7 F. Fermenting too warm can cause the yeast to produce higher alcohols and excessive fruity flavors. Letting the ambient temperature rise towards the high end of the yeast's range as fermentation slows helps to ensure a clean well attenuated beer, but for most strains is unnecessary. If you are unable to control the fermentation temperature, then choose a yeast strain that fits the conditions.

 

 9. Racking to secondary. I know the instructions included in most kits call for transferring the beer from the primary fermentor to a secondary before bottling, but all this step accomplishes is introducing more risk of oxidation and wild yeast contamination. There is no risk of off flavors from autolysis (yeast death) at the homebrew scale in less than a month. At a commercial level the pressure and heat exerted on the yeast can cause problems quickly, but those conditions do not exist in a carboy or bucket.

 10. Relying on bubbles in the airlock to judge when fermentation is complete. Wait until fermentation has appeared finished for a couple of days before pulling a sample of wort to test the final gravity. There is no rush to bottle, and doing so before the final gravity is reached results in extra carbonation. Once fermentation is complete and the beer tastes good, you can move the fermentor somewhere cool to encourage the yeast to settle out for clearer beer in the bottle.

 11. Adding the entire five ounce package of priming sugar. In almost all cases this amount of sugar will over-carbonate the beer. Even for five gallons of beer this will produce too much carbonation for most styles and most brewers will end up with less than five gallons in the bottling bucket. Instead use a  
  priming sugar calculator     http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/

 Corn Sugar   most beers   3.77 ounces 5 gals at 72 Dregees

 to tailor the weight of sugar you add to the actual volume of beer, the style of beer you are brewing, and the fermentation


Add Campden Tablets Or Sulfite: For sure, you want to add sulfites such as Campden tablets. You can also use potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite, instead. Both of these work in the same way as Campden tablets. The only difference is that they are in a granulated form. If using Campden tablets, add one per gallon. If you are using either potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite,
add 1/16 of a teaspoon per gallon.
Sweeten The wine To Taste: Most home winemakers will use cane sugar as a sweetener, but you can use corn sugar, beet sugar, honey, etc. There is room for experimentation. Just realize that regardless of whatever you use, it needs to be completely dissolved and evenly blended into the wine. Don't skimp on the stirring. Add Campden Tablets Or Sulfite: For sure, you want to add sulfites such as Campden tablets. You can also use potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite, instead. Both of these work in the same way as Campden tablets. The only difference is that they are in a granulated form. If using Campden tablets, add one per gallon. If you are using either potassium metabisulfite or sodium metabisulfite, add 1/16 of a teaspoon per gallon. Add Potassium Sorbate: Up to now I have not mentioned potassium sorbate, (aka, wine stabilizer) but it is the real key to sweetening a wine at bottling time. Potassium sorbate does not kill or destroy yeast, wild or domestic, but instead, it stops them from reproducing. Any yeast fermentation thrives on the fact that a single yeast cell can reproduce itself several times before it dies. It does so through a process called budding. A little bud will emerge from the yeast's cell wall. The bud will eventually separate and become its own yeast cell. This is how a yeast colony propagates throughout a fermentation. If the yeast cannot reproduce, then the fermentation cannot sustain itself. This is where potassium sorbate comes in. Potassium sorbate interrupts the reproductive process by coating the yeasts' outer cell wall, making budding impossible. If the yeast cannot bud, the colony will not flourish. The recommended dosage for potassium sorbate is 1/2 teaspoon per gallons - See more at: http://www.eckraus.com/blog/how-do-you-sweeten-wine-at-bottling-time#sthash.iys27l8k.dpuf


I’ve got my hop rhizomes, now what? Growing Hops


All Grain Brewing    Video      1         2       3

_____________________________________________________________



Fire Furmatation







WilliamsWarn 1L (34 U.S fl. Oz) Clarification Agent for Home Brewing
I am a new brewer   20gal and brewing   I wanted to do a simple Clarification  of my beer 
I don't have a way to cool down beer below 60 degrees      maybe 65 degrees
I  bought some product from you   It sounds like a lot of work   is their a way I can just add
an ounce or two to my  second carboy after I transfer  it from my main fermenter  
then wait 2 weeks to bottle    Or do you have simpler  clarification product 
  Thanks  read many reviews   just  too many opinions   

 Hi Bob,
No worries if it's not cold, it just works better if it is.
 After you have transferred it to your secondary carboy add 1 U.S. fl. oz and stir gently
repeat this process 24 hours later and that should do the trick!
$1850 Amazon  Cheep  you only use 5 tea spoons on gal
His Reply


 Best product Ever  for clearing Beer





Sent him Photo of how it cleared that Beer
 His Reply  
"Fantastic mate that’s awesome!   "Thanks

Cheers Pat
Patrick Ratcliffe   •   Sales   •   WilliamsWarn Personal Brewery 
T. +64 9 525 3488   •   M. +64 21 885 185     
Unit 3, 739 Great South Rd   •   PO Box 12203, Penrose 
Auckland 1061, New Zealand   •   williamswarn.com





  Top                                        KKeep Going  Down   Habanero Jerky Smoke House    BobaneroBrew   

 

Bobs Smoke Shack Whats behind Door 1  Raw meat  & fresh Habaneros   WoW   9 hours later I can eat that 
     
Look above At photo of  Habanerows Smoked 
  Is that a Barbeque Barrel   Oh Grampaw  Steaks is as good as  Life is good     
       

Is That the Baraque Barrel?  "Grampaw  Wood only Son!
Best  Rib eye Steak " I have ever had     Mushrooms " WOW Lets head to the fire pit  have some Marshmallow
and some of Dianne Sweet Cherry Wine
 Fresh Eggs in the morning.  Keep an eye on them "Rusty 

 

Y
Ok"   Bobanero family

 You think you got it so good in Idaho

You call your life Living "HA 

 Now  this is what I call the real life Image result for arrow icon black background
 
 

Hey" what ever floats your Boat 

                                     Bob